It’s been over a year now since Detroit’s favorite sushi place reopened—after a rather unfortunate and unnecessary closing—under new ownership. Owners Katalia (Kat) and Roberto Lemos (DJ Bet), who worked at the first incarnation of Oslo as bartender and DJ respectively, have very much kept the spirit of the old Oslo alive, and have perhaps even improved upon it, much to the happiness and relief of techno-lovers around Detroit. The basement bar is still a weekend haven for late-night dancing and debauchery with noted techno and house DJs and hip-hop artists spinning into the wee hours (though they shut it down at 2:00AM now, instead of 4:00AM as before). Oslo was always considered to be one of the best electronic music clubs in the area, and thankfully has retained that coveted reputation. Oslo was considered to have some of the best sushi in the area, which was unmistakably true and a fact that even the most stern of sushi snobs would hardly fain argue. When the Lemoses took over, they joined forces with Kat’s mother, co-owner and chef Lumpai Rossbach (former owner of the Royal Thai Cafe in Royal Oak), who changed up the menu a bit, giving it more of an appeal to a wider variety of tastes (i.e., those who don’t like sushi) by adding hot food (gasp!) to the menu. Rossbach has deep roots in Thailand, and introduced a variety of Thai-style dishes to the menu, as well as a few familiar dishes from the popular Cantonese style. The result is a very trendy, very hip, somewhat generic hodgepodge Asian restaurant.

On two recent trips, I sampled a variety of dishes including the sushi and sashimi. I made it a point to stray from such general and obvious selections as Almond Chicken and California Rolls, sampling instead some of the more seemingly unique and perhaps even “authentic” items on the menu. (Granted, cultural authenticity in dining is relative, but it is still the Holy Grail that critics love to chase.)

I sampled the Tom Yum soup, a hearty broth made with lemongrass, lime leaves, straw mushrooms, tomatoes, onions, cilantro, and chicken. The lime and lemongrass gave it a citrusy tartness, but with the heartiness of soul-loving chicken broth. Though a stretch from traditional Thai “Tom Yum,” which is actually a hot-and-sour soup, it was still flavorful and satisfying. I also tried the Steamed Dumplings, served with a sweet gyoza sauce. The dumplings were perfect–bursting with juice and wrapped in a delicate, tender dough that tears ever so easily but is also firm and resistant.

Though I have an affinity for spicy foods, I was at the mercy of my sensitive-tongued dining partner, and so when I ordered the Drunken Noodles they came ever-so-mildly mild. Made with bean sprouts, onions, bamboo, wine, egg, fresh noodles and basil, the Drunken Noodles were firm and fat and slippery, a perfect texture with a perfectly imperfect shape (noodles ranged in size and shape, proof of their homemade freshness). The flavor was rather rich, and while regrettably not spicy, still full of body with a long-lingering taste.

For sushi, I first tried the Triple Hitter (yellow tail, tuna, salmon, avocado, and masago) and the T.N.T. (spicy tuna and avocado topped with spicy sauce then baked). The Triple Hitter was mild, with no real standout flavor, though not at all unpleasant. The T.N.T. roll was a neon-colored explosion of spice, and while the “baked sushi” concept was a little off-putting, the taste was hot, hot, hot. (And I like hot.) My next venture brought me the Cherry Blossom: salmon and cucumber topped with tuna, lemon and fish eggs. Again, mild, with the standout flavor being the dried lemon on top which was, quite frankly, too much lemon. I also tried the Red Snapper and Crab Stick sashimi. The Red Snapper had a dollop of chili sauce on top, which was superb together. The Crab Stick tasted like the crab meat had been soaked in butter, and melted in my mouth as if it had. By and large, my preference tends to lean more towards sashimi than sushi, and here was no exception.

On both occasions my server was the friendly and affable Kevin, whose namesake specialty drink “Kevin Love Japan” (made with Jameson, Fuki Plum Wine, a splash of key lime juice and Sprite) is a surprisingly smooth and refreshing beverage, though deceptively strong (especially when the bartender accidentally makes you two). Kevin has a solid knowledge of sake, Japanese rice wine, which he will more than happily share. Opting instead to go it alone (mistake), I went for the Cap Ace, which tasted like…lighter fluid. When I told him as much, he cheerily answered that he’d be happy to help me choose next time, and that the house sake is actually quite good. But I know he was thinking I should have just taken his advice the first time. I know it.

For those of you with a strong thirst to quench, Oslo offers a variety of beer, sake, and creative specialty mixed drinks. If you’d like to round out your “Asian” experience, you can sample Japanese beers such as Sapporo, Asahi, or Hitachino ($7.00), or try the Chinese-brewed Tsing Tao, or even Sing Ha, a Thai beer (both $5.00). There is a small

wine list with no real stars, and a comparitively extensive sake list which offers a variety of sake styles from the dry to the sweet which are made to pair with with this kind of cuisine (but I do recommend you ask for assistance with your selection if sake is not one of your areas of expertise). The cocktail menu utilizes surprising combinations to create truly unique creations, showing off Kat’s mixmaster skills. I’ve already told you about Kevin Love Japan, but while you’re there you might also want to try the Space Odyssey, made with 1800 Tequila, Bacardi 151, Liquor 43 and Seagrams 7…which adds up to 2001 (extra points for the clever name). Or if you want to try sake but are not sure you want to commit to it straight, order the Narviktini, made with Fuki Plum Wine and sake. Or you could just go for broke and order Kat’s namesake, The Kat, a Svedka Vodka martini infused with peaches and fresh ginger, with a dash of peach nectar. Like angels dancing on your tongue.